The Three Main Types of Cacao
Image Courtesy Riccardo Sabatini
For Chocolate Makers Cacao Comes In Threes
Theobroma cacao — aka, the cacao tree, or the cocoa tree — is a small evergreen tree native to the deep tropical regions of Mesoamerica. The seeds are the main ingredient of chocolate, while the pulp is utilized in some areas to prepare juice, smoothies, and creams.
Researchers have classified about ten cacao varieties, but, as far as chocolate makers are concerned, the following are the "Big Three" main varieties of cacao.
The “Big Three”
The most common type is Forastero. It's akin to the Cavendish banana - not popular because it tastes particularly great but because it's hardy, more disease-resistant, and has a higher yield. You can trace about 80% of chocolate to the Forastero group.
If you asked a chocolate connoisseur to name the most prized, rare, and expensive variety, the answer would probably come from the Criollo group. Pre-Columbian indigenous peoples prized this variety. Quality Criollo is typically less bitter and possesses more aromatic qualities. Remember, those indigenous people processed and consumed cacao differently than we do today. If you gave a Mayan a chocolate bar, they probably wouldn't believe that it came from cacao.
The Trinitario bean — which happens to be the variety we source from the Philippines — is thought to be a hybrid between the Forestero and Criollo. Legend has it that an 18th-century hurricane (some sources say it was a disease, maybe it was a combination of the two) decimated Trinidad's Criollo cacao. Forastero trees planted to replace the trees that died, cross-pollinated with some of the remaining Criollo, giving birth to the new Trinitario strain. It's typically hardier than Criollo but packs more flavor than Forastero — the best of both worlds.
There's more to cacao (and chocolate) than just the label.
During a lesson in sourcing cacao, Dylan Butterbaugh of Mānoa Chocolate explains how people can sometimes conflate a name with inherent quality.
We at Oodaalolly agree.
The cacao variety does factor into our decision making. Still, just as important is the terroir and the quality of the fermentation process.
It just so happens that, in addition to the plants themselves, the unique mineral composition of the soil and the warm climate of the Philippines impart an unmistakable flavor to the cacao grown there. Additionally, proximity to pineapples, coconuts, and other local agriculture adds to the terroir.
These elements combine to give products derived from Filipino cacao, an unabashedly unique taste, perfect for nibs and chocolate. We are so lucky that beans from the Philippines naturally taste great and are grown and fermented by skilled co-op farmers.
It’s why Philippine “Trinitario” beans are more than just a pedigree.
Please Note: Theobroma Cacao is a diverse and complex tree and this blog post does nothing more than lightly touch upon 0.01% of that rich subject of study. If you would like to learn more about this plant and chocolate we encourage it!
The Well Tempered Podcast is a great place to start. Their Scholar Series is particularly well informed and approachable.